Kartik Kumra Revolutionizes Modern Indian Menswear at Paris Fashion Week SS25

Just hours after unveiling his Spring 2025 collection at Paris Fashion Week, designer Kartik Kumra remains composed as ever. No longer a mere college project, Kartik Research has evolved into a fully-fledged brand. When asked about the inspiration behind this collection, he explains, “This season was driven by the election cycle and the shifting sociopolitical landscape. I kept thinking about governance, authoritarianism, and how fashion could offer an escape, a sense of hope.” Over the past four months, Kumra immersed himself in documentaries on pilgrimages, closely observing the uniforms people wear during these journeys. “From there,” he adds, “we explored the concept of modern Indian workwear—what it means today and its future direction.” His mood board was a collage of vintage documents and photographs from across the Indian subcontinent. A particular series by Quentin de Briey on Ladakh left a lasting impression.

 

 
The resulting collection, a seamless blend of optimism and experience, featured pieces that made a strong impact on the Paris runway. Kumra incorporated block prints on silk and handloom cotton adorned with embroidered chintz patterns. Exclusive embellished Converse sneakers also made an appearance. “We opened the show this time—a big upgrade from last season! A prime slot really does make a difference,” he notes.
 
Once the collection was finalized, the next challenge was assembling the creative team—models, stylists, and crew. “The past few days were a whirlwind of castings, fittings, and last-minute adjustments. It all came together just in time,” recalls Kumra. The show was staged at Le Philanthro-Lab, a 15th-century building near Notre Dame. “It’s a gorgeous old French venue with incredible natural light,” Kumra describes.
 
 
After fulfilling orders from his previous show, Kumra dived right into preparing this one, staying committed to his brand’s core values—no use of electricity and a deep emphasis on sustainability. “We stuck to our approach of reinterpreting Indian craftsmanship, but this time we focused more on tailoring—soft shoulders, boxy silhouettes.” His enthusiasm is evident as he talks about collaborating with artisans from over a dozen Indian states, with a particular fondness for the handloom linens developed in Madhya Pradesh. “Look number 6 was my favorite,” he says, beaming. “The yellow embroidered jacket took forever to perfect, but it turned out beautifully.” While rooted in workwear, the collection maintained the playful eccentricity that Kartik Research is known for, but always with an emphasis on wearability.
 
 
Despite the challenges of a global pandemic and a rebrand, Kumra’s label continues to thrive. In just two-and-a-half years of full-time design, he’s established a presence alongside global luxury brands and opened a store in Delhi’s Greater Kailash II. His journey from a fresh face in fashion to an LVMH Prize nominee and designer to A-listers has been impressive. “As a designer, you pour everything into your creations, so it’s essential to showcase them in the right places, with the right eyes on them. Paris offers that.” Looking ahead, Kumra is already planning his next move—not in India, but New York.

About The Author

A fashion journalist providing authoritative coverage of the European fashion scene. With a focus on France, my work includes reporting from celebrity photoshoots and premier runways to major pageants, complemented by exclusive interviews and long-form features

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