Part One of the Highlights of Milan Fashion Week Spring 2025

 As the fashion world descends upon the Italian style capital, we remain in an absolute state of bliss that is Milan Fashion Week. The Spring 2025 season has proven to be the gift that keeps on giving, a testament to the enduring creativity and innovation of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana’s houses. Though only halfway through the jam-packed schedule, we have already borne witness to a plethora of standout moments that have set a powerful and optimistic tone for the season ahead. From historical homages to forward-thinking fabrications, the opening acts of the week have masterfully blended reverence for the past with a thrilling gaze into the future.

The week commenced with a profound sense of history, most notably at Fendi. With the Italian house preparing to celebrate its centenary in 2025, Creative Director Kim Jones took a clever and elegant approach by looking back to the era of its founding: the Roaring Twenties. The collection was not a literal recreation but a sophisticated reinterpretation of its liberated spirit. Jones explored the notion of undressing, with delicate, lingerie-inspired slips worn beneath tailored outerwear and artfully draped jersey dresses that evoked the effortless glamour of the period. This theme of lightness and freedom was echoed at Alberta Ferretti, where the collection was built on a foundation of ethereal, spring-ready fabrications. Fluid georgette, featherlight chiffon, and delicate lace were crafted into pieces that seemed to float down the runway, allowing the body to move with an uninhibited, graceful ease. Meanwhile, a different kind of serenity was cultivated at Boss, where Marco Falcioni invited guests into a soothing urban garden. The show’s atmosphere translated into a collection defined by clean, architectural lines and a palette of tranquil neutrals, offering a vision of modern, sophisticated calm.

In stark and spectacular contrast, Fausto Puglisi delivered a high-octane, emotional finale for the ages at Roberto Cavalli. In a powerful tribute to the late designer’s legacy, Puglisi enlisted a handful of his iconic supermodel muses, including the formidable Natasha Poly and Joan Smalls, to walk the runway. The collection itself was a celebration of the house’s unabashed DNA—animal prints were unleashed with a new ferocity, bold cut-outs exposed skin with confidence, and gilded accessories added a touch of decadent glamour. It was a statement of unapologetic power and sensuality. A more intellectual but equally compelling homage was paid at Max Mara, where Creative Director Ian Griffiths found inspiration in Alexandrian philosopher and teacher Hypatia. The collection translated her scholarly elegance into a wardrobe of timeless prowess, featuring sophisticated toppers, sleek column dresses, and the brand’s iconic covetable coats, all rendered in a palette of stone, papyrus, and ink that spoke of ancient wisdom and modern minimalism.

The week’s most anticipated moments, however, often belong to the master of thoughtful subversion, Miuccia Prada, and her co-creative director Raf Simons. For their ninth womenswear collection together, they continued their deep exploration of the codes of the modern wardrobe. The runway was a study in intriguing contrasts and refined details: topless hats that framed the face with architectural precision, embellished eyewear that offered a flash of the unexpected, and metallic pieces that introduced a futuristic shimmer amongst more familiar forms. Their work remains a cerebral highlight, constantly challenging and redefining what luxury can mean. This spirit of unique expression was also found at Del Core, where Daniel Del Core continued to build his captivating universe with a collection that balanced dramatic, sculptural silhouettes with a raw, almost elemental beauty.

From the artful deconstruction and playful proportions at Marni to the romantic, folk-infused storytelling of Antonio Marras, the week celebrated a vast spectrum of creativity. Jil Sander offered a masterclass in serene, luxurious minimalism, while Etro embraced its nomadic spirit with a vibrant and eclectic mix of prints and textures. Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini presented a softer, more intimate take on femininity, and Moschino’s new chapter began with a focus on wearable, yet idiosyncratic, charm. As Emporio Armani closed this first segment of the week with its signature grace and elegance, one thing became abundantly clear: Milan is buzzing with a renewed energy. The best of Spring 2025 may already be behind us, yet the promise of what is still to come makes the second half of the week an thrilling prospect.